I’m currently traveling in Croatia with a Smithsonian group. Fortunately, the high season is beginning to wind down. You can almost hear these historic buildings and cobblestone streets breathe a sigh of relief. It will be a while before I sort everything out and present some of the historical highlights in an organized way. But let me share just one of the sites I visited.

Zadar is a small city on the Adriatic coast. During the 1991-95 Homeland Wars it suffered terrible bombings. In fact, like so much of this part of the world, there have been many times of tumult.  

Zadar has a long naval history and became an important trade center centuries before being absorbed into the Roman Empire during the time of Caesar Augustus. It was the site of important events in the Christianization of the Dalmatian Coast, starting in the 9th  century. Crusaders sacked the city in 1202.  

The focal point of the city—St. Donatus Church–was constructed in the 9th century by Donatus of Zadar. Its pre-Romanesque style of the Carolingian era is striking to behold. Builders used the ruin of a first-century Roman forum for its foundation. Originally named Church of the Holy Trinity, the church was renamed in the 15th century in honor of St. Donatus.

Having just spent time in Split which was still full of  tourists, Zadar seemed like an oasis with stunning views of the Adriatic and pleasant streets with lots of Italian Gelato for sale. It’s such a pity those early Dalmatians didn’t have the benefit of gelato!