This is my third tour in the past year as Study Leader on an intense, rewarding Smithsonian Journey called “Old World Europe.”

Out my window shimmers the fairy-tale façade of the Hungarian Parliament, casting its reflection upon the dark waters of the Danube. The Margarite Bridge sparkles across the river, like a golden chain. It’s hard to believe I’m here. But I am, wearing my “tour leader” hat, and loving it.

Across two and a half weeks we visit Warsaw, Krakow, Budapest, Vienna, Bratislava, and Prague. People often select this tour because of Vienna and Prague. To their surprise, they fall hopelessly in love with Krakow and Budapest. On top of that, Bratislava charms them. And Warsaw? Well, how can you not fall for a bustling city that has stunningly rebuilt itself after a 90% destruction by the Nazis?

When you are a “study leader,” it’s hard not to forecast your own enthusiasm to the group. In measured tones I say: “The Carpathians will be beautiful to cross on Monday.” But I want to shout: “This is some of the grandest scenery I’ve ever seen, and you’re going to be hanging out the windows, with your mouths wide open!” Of course, some people will be astonished, and others will have trekked across a dozen mountain chains, so the Tatras region of the Carpathians will be just another trophy in their collection.

Same with restaurants. Last night we frolicked in a local Jewish-Hungarian restaurant called Rosensteins. It’s the opposite of touristy, the food is traditional, and the accordion player delights everyone. By the end, some of us were dancing to Hava Nagila. On top of that, I had a goose leg that made me want to move to Budapest.

Yet, it’s a bad idea to forecast to the group, “You’re going to love Rosensteins.” Each tour is like a new recipe: untried, untested. It could be that everything will please, or fail to please. That is the nature of travel.

In our initial meeting, I scribble frantic notes trying to figure out which “Barbara” has short hair, and which has long. Which “Jack” wears glasses and which one doesn’t. My goal is to get everyone’s face and name straight within two days.

My notes don’t always help. What does help is watching the travelers respond. Oh, I could tell stories, and so could they! We’re all in a play, and each new location unfolds the plot. The Medieval mysteries, Renaissance whims, Baroque intricacies, and Romantic passions are the sets and costumes. And we’re the actors. The whole story is framed against the political tragedies of 20th-century history. We hear the words “deported, damaged, destroyed, devastated” a lot. We still see survivors, and the bullet holes have not yet been covered up everywhere. The past is not forgotten here.

A tour leader. It’s a blessing and privilege to be here.